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Art Deco Vintage Costume Jewelry Guide

What is Art Deco?Art Deco is known as a style or era relating to the years 1920-1935. Of course, it didn’t start on January 1, 1920 and end at the stroke of midnight on December 31, 1935, but the years mentioned are when we see the strongest examples of known Art Deco characteristics. As the Deco era approached and as it faded away, we see signs of it mixed in with the era that preceded it and the era that came about after it was no longer popular. These times are known as transitional times as one era transitions into another.

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Costume jewelry from this time consisted of (but is not limited to):

geometric shapes angular strong lines bright color contrasts copied from expensive Paris examples Czech jewelry German jewelry made with sterling silver, dyed chalcedony (made to imitate chrysoprase), and marcasites marcasites (faux and real) or what is known as marcasite that is actually pyrite butterfly wing jewelry speed related themes such as greyhounds, rockets, airplanes, etc. Bakelite Celluloid filigree enamel “fruit salad” jewelry real and synthetic gems such as jade, coral, onyx, mother of pearl, ivory, lapis, rock crystal, chrysoprase, carnelian, rubies, emeralds, smoky quartz, amozonite dress clips duettes “white” metal made to resemble platinum, often rhodium plated birthstone jewelry

Art Deco Sterling Glass Cameo Necklace

Enamel and Glass Stone Link Bracelet

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Influences

Egyptian themes (following the discovery of the Pyramid tombs) African and Japanese influences modern technology influences (The Machine Age) Jazz Age influences Hollywood influences the Paris Exposition - the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs the Russian Ballet Cubism the Bauhaus

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Necklaces

long flapper beaded necklaces Czech necklaces with angular glass stones and marcasites long necklaces worn together with short chokers or wrapped around the neck once to simulate a choker look faux pearls and glass beads use of Venetian beads amber beaded necklaces rectangular pendants with “Lalique-like” crystals

Czech Signed Deco Glass Necklace

Bracelets

many worn at one time on both wrists (as a symbol of fashion as well as status) the “bangle” and the “tennis bracelet” flexible link bracelets

Deco Red Molded Glass Bracelet

Earrings

long dangles worn with “bobbed” hair screw-back

Art Deco Reverse Carved Sterling Crystal Earrings

Brooches and Pins

circle and oval shapes “white” clear rhinestone pave set brooches Florida theme (flamingos and palm trees) Scottie dogs (Franklin D. Roosevelt had a Scottie dog in the 30’s) gazelles arrows air travel themes

Clear Pave Set Vintage Rhinestone Brooch

Rings

use of large synthetic or semiprecious stones (commonly seen is chrysoprase or onyx) filigree settings rectangular shape

Sterling Marcasite and Chrysoprase Glass Deco Ring

Dress Clips

enamel rhinestones / paste worn just about everywhere on the body a staple for the stylish woman

Green Glass Geometric Deco Dress Clip

Buckles

carved and molded glass

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Books:

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 - 5th Ed by Jeanenne Bell, G.G. C. Jeanenne Bell, C. Jeanenne Bell (Producer)

Warman’s Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume (2nd Ed) by Christie Romero

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