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Buying a Mannequin? Tips so you don’t get stiffed - #2

This is a continuation of additional information not included in my first mannequin buying guide. After choosing which style of full bodied mannequin you want, the next important feature to consider is what type of base you should get for the mannequin and what types of poses work best for quick wardrobe changes. This guide was written by Mannequin Madness, the largest mannequin liquidator in the San Francisco Bay Area.

What type of mannequin stand shall I get?

Mannequins stand upright by being attached to the base by either a Foot Flange; Ankle/Calf rod or Butt Rod. Here is a description of each.

Foot Flange ??there is a hole in the foot of the mannequin which fits over a rod protruding from the base. The rod is either round shaped or square shaped, to match the size of the hole in the mannequin’s foot. It is very easy to take the mannequin and off the base with a foot flange. Of course the disadvantage of a foot flange is you cannot display shoes or hosiery without putting a hole in the shoe or stocking! Usually when people buy this type of mannequin they display the mannequin in their ??are feet??

Some abstract and headless mannequins (but never realistic ones) come with shoes that are already formed on their feet.

Calf/Ankle Rod: there is a short, upright bar that extends up from the base and inserts into the fitting above the mannequin’s ankle or calf. This will enable you to display shoes on the mannequin and at the same time the rod is not so intrusive as to interfere with displaying pants on it ??unless they are stirrup or Capri pants. If the mannequin is moved repeatedly on and off this type of stand, the area around the calf or ankle can develop hairline cracks which can eventually lead to a weakening of the leg or even worse, breakage.

Butt Rod: there is a square or round metal rod which extends up, usually at an angle from the base and fits into an opening on the mannequin’s butt or upper thigh. This used to be the standard way that mannequins were attached to their base. To display pants on this type of mannequin you will have to open up the seams ??a huge disadvantage of this style. But you can display shoes on this mannequin without putting a hole in the shoe. Unfortunately there is not a universal standard when it comes to butt rods - the length, shape and diameter of the rod varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Some retail stores prefer not to use the base at all and put the butt rod directly into a flange that is permanently affixed to the floor Others retailers do something in the store windows called “striking.” Striking a mannequin means using three strike points at the mannequin’s waist to hold the mannequin with invisible wire that is secured in the floor.

The only reason why I mention this is because if you buy used mannequins this is why they frequently they do NOT come with a base. More and more retail stores do not use them or if the bases were made of glass, they tend to get broken over time.

If you are buying bendable children’s mannequins their rod is a little different. Most of them have an insert on their back where you insert a metal rod and the rod goes in the base. Others have a rod that goes in their ankle or they do not come with a rod at all, instead they have a hook at the neck and you hang the mannequin from there.

What type of mannequin base shall I get?

Mannequin bases are either made of a commercial glass, (very contemporary looking but breakable), Plexiglas (very functional but can get easily scratched) or metal (very durable but can be heavy which might be an issue if you plan on taking the mannequin to tradeshows).

For some reason most of the glass and Plexiglas bases are round and while the metal bases are square or rectangular. If you are using the mannequin to display clothing online the shape of the base probably does not matter. But if you will be using the mannequin in a retail store, the shape of the base could impact how much space you need to allocate on the floor or store window.

Which mannequins are easiest to dress?

The posture and construction of the mannequin can have an impact on how easy it will be for you to dress the mannequin. Seated and reclining mannequins look dramatic, but can be time-consuming to dress.

Most mannequins are constructed to separate at their seams. The hands detach at wrist, the arms detach at the shoulder, the torso detaches at the waist and the legs either split in half or just one leg detaches from the lower waist. Some mannequins do not have legs that separate which means you will have less maneuverability when putting on skin tight pants. Some mannequins are constructed as all one solid piece, only their arms detach. As long as you are displaying dresses, gowns or coats they are easy to dress. But you will need to maneuver the entire mannequin, not just the legs, if you want to display pants, shorts or panties. This can be rather awkward especially if you are dressing the mannequin without assistance.

On occasion some mannequins, usually the abstract style, have hands that do not detach from the arms.

This is an important element to note if you are putting on garments with a tight-fitting sleeve. With hands that detach from the arm you can put the sleeve on the arm and then attach the hand.

Warning about buying mannequins with a special texture that gives the mannequin a suede-like finish. Not only does this material scratch easily, it sticks or drags on clothing made of wool or cashmere making the mannequin difficult to dress.

Since your mannequin will convey a subtle message about you and your merchandise you mannequin should not only be functional to use, but evoke the image or fantasy that complements your clothing. For example, if you are displaying sportswear you might want the mannequin to have an active pose. A mannequin used to display designer clothing or lingerie should have a post with attitude, like the one below.

A mannequin with a wide leg pose may look appealing, but can pose a problem when displaying clothing like a tight fitting pencil skirt or gown with a mermaid bottom.

This is why if you can only afford to buy one mannequin to display a wide variety of clothing styles, it is preferable that the mannequin has its legs close together. Your second mannequin can have a more dramatic pose.

If your mannequin comes with protruding nipples and you put tape across the nipple to minimize the outline of the nipple on the clothing.

What size are mannequins?

Although the average American woman wears a size 12 or larger, most mannequins wear size 4 or 6 clothing and are about 5 feet 11 inches tall. Mannequins are about projecting a fantasy, rather than mirroring reality. Thanks to Jennifer Lopez and Beyonce some mannequin manufacturers are making mannequins with a full and curvaceous butt, but the mannequin is still petite overall.

Plus size mannequins exist but are hard to find, it is easier to buy a dress form in plus sizes than a mannequin. If you have a small mannequin and the clothes are larger than the mannequin, you can always cinch in the back with a bulldog clip. If you are selling vintage clothing it might be advisable to buy a junior rather than woman’s size mannequin because women were smaller then.

Please see our other mannequin guides on Ebay for more information about mannequins:

Buying a Mannequin? Tips so you don’t get stiffed-#1 - this guide discusses the various styles of mannequins - realistic, abstract, headless and bendable and what mannequin cost.

Buying a Used Mannequin? Get Smart About Buying Dummies - explains all the ins and outs of buying a used mannequin


SELLER Safety in shipping

I’ve personally had several problems lately with items being “lost in the mail” … Have you? I see on so many listings, “Not responsible for items lost or damaged in the mail”. Not quite correct, you know? Almost every seller gives the buyer an option to buy insurance on their purchase. This insurance, when purchased, guarantees a refund of the value specified, TO THE SELLER, in the event of damage during shipping. When this insurance is paid for, BY THE BUYER, the seller has the obligation of either refunding the buyers payment and then filing a damage claim or acting as a middleman to assure that the buyer gets reimbursed. So you see, a buyer IS resposible for insured items damaged in the mail.

Also, many sellers do not realize that if an item is lost in the mail, a buyer can file an “item not received” claim with eBay or PayPal. Unless the seller can provide tracking information, to eBay or PayPal, as proof that the seller actually mailed the package, PayPal will grant a full refund to the buyer.

A simple solution to both of these situations is to ship all packages with “Delivery Confirmation”. The USPS charges a mere 60 cents for this option on most services. If you ship by Priority Mail, the charge is only 50 cents. This option gives the seller a receipt for shipping a specific package to a specific buyer. It also provides the seller with a tracking number which can be a lifesaver if a package is, indeed, “lost in the mail”. A good seller can email the tracking number to the buyer and they can then follow the progress of the package at www.usps.com ……

If everyone would use Delivery Confirmation, I’m sure that there would be less claims for “lost” packages filed. Charge the extra 60 or 50 cents and do yourself and your buyer a service.

FREE PACKING MATERIAL where to find it,don’t pay for it

FREE PACKING MATERIAL

So where do you find it……. You may think to look at department stores for boxes. But they compact everything. The office building next door…. but the people in the shipping department are way down in the basement…… AUTOMOTIVE BODY SHOP & FURNITURE STORES , yes the gold mine in packing material, styrofoam, bubble wrap, small to huge cardboard boxes are BODY SHOPS AND FURNITURE STORES.

Packing material chokes up their dumpster, and they are more than happy to get rid of it.

Make an arrangement to have them save what you are looking for. Yes, you could even dumpster dive. Large boxes that had hoods, fenders etc. are a great source of cardboard. Small boxes from small parts. Most of these shops and stores do not compact or break down their trash. Not much else in there either. You are not going to find rank garbage or diapers. But you are going to find sheets of bubble wrap and styrofoam peanuts.(ghost poop)

Small businesses will save packing material for you too. Just ask. They may even have a stockpile of styrofoam beads right now.

You may pass one of these body shops every day on the way home from work, there may even be one right around the corner from you……..

RECYCLE, RE-USE, YOU CHOOSE

I have not purchased a box, packing material, or bubble wrap in 30 years. Only padded envelopes and tape.

Mark

Priority Mail Flat Rate Shipping - USPS boxes

One of the best deals going on shipping, for many items, is the US Post Office FLAT RATE packages.

There are 3 sizes of packaging to choose from with Flat Rate Shipping.

The light bulb is for size comparison.

  • 1st is the FLAT RATE ENVELOPE (pictured above) which costs $ 4.60 to ship anywhere in the USA.

This is a very sturdy 12 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ envelope with no weight limit. The main stipulation is that you can secure the flap as it is.

________________________________________________________________

  • 2nd is a FLAT RATE BOX (pictured above) which costs $ 8.95 to ship anywhere in the US.

This is a box with an inside diameter of about 13 1/2″ x 12″ x 3 1/2″, which is similar to a size that would fit a dress shirt, and as all of these Flat Rate packages, has a 70 # weight limit.

______________________________________________________________________

  • 3rd is another FLAT RATE BOX (above) which also costs $ 8.95 to ship in the US.

This box has an I.D. of 11″ x 8 1/2″ x 5 1/2″, and would be similar to a size that would accommodate a stack of 6 red house bricks. Again, 70 # weight limit.

________________________________________________________________

The boxes are free, and will be delivered to your front door in a week or so, by placing your order at the USPS web site (your local Post Office should also carry them, but it may be necessary to ask, as they may be behind the counter). Later, free pick up of the items you have packaged can also be scheduled with the US Postal Service. More info can be found at “usps.com”.

There are many other Priority mail packages & supplies to choose from on the USPS website, and all except those with postage already attached should be free. The Flat Rate boxes are Priority Mail items, and they can be found through a link, by searching Supplies here –> USPS.com

eBay & USPS also offer some of the Priority mail boxes branded with the eBay logo in a few of the common sizes. They may be found here –> supplies.usps.com

Also, with regards to eBay, if you use the option to “Print Shipping Label” in “My eBay”" after a buyer has won, and paid for the item, there is now an option for you to print the US Postal Priority Flat rate Envelope or Box shipping label right on your own printer, by paying for it through PayPal.

The US Postal Service web site also allows you to print Postage labels directly to your printer. This is useful for those not involved with eBay, or for those wishing to print their postage for other needs. Also, when printing postage at the USPS web site you may use your debit or credit card(s) to set up, and pay for, that shipping process. There is also an online address book you can work with.

It is very easy and straight forward after you try it a few times.

Also, by using Priority mail, your customer, or recipient gets the items quickly. Secondly, if you ship with one of the many USPS Priority mail boxes, that are free of charge (as opposed to the average single box price of between $1.50 to 4.50) you offset your shipping fees, by adding speed and reliability to the shipment.

By printing your label online you will also automatically be able to look up any delivery confirmations, and by adding either a signature confirmation, or the reasonably priced insurance, to the shipment you should have all the protection you need should something happen along the way. The tracking information, for your shipments is also available to you, or the recipient, online, at the USPS web site.

* Please note though, that the USPS online tracking runs a few days behind what you might be used to with some of the other online services. So, do not panic, as it will always shows up, just not as quick as you would wish.

Let it also be noted that Priority mail travels by air, which is very gentle on the shipment. With reasonable care taken in your packaging it is very likely you will never see any damage claims. We have yet to have a damaged Priority mail shipment. Also remember though, that when shipping by other Postal methods such as Media Mail, or Parcel Post, for example, that your shipment may be subjected to bouncing around in the back of a semi trailer for a few days.

This article mainly refers to articles shipped inside the US, but Priority mail is availabe for shipments leaving the US.

* The envelopes are $9.00 to Canada and Mexico, and $11.00 to all other countries.

* The boxes are $23.00 to Canada and Mexico, and $37.00 to all other countries.

Lastly, the boxes and envelopes, as pictured here, are being redesigned to a different style by USPS at this time.

Vote below if you want.

Thank you for the interest.

Hornwaddler


Fix Your Mannequin with BONDO Plastic Surgery

If you’ve got a vintage mannequin, there’s a good chance that your lady needs a repair or two.

My pal, butter_side_down, helped me repair my mannequin, Sabrina. He also helped write this guide for others whose mannequins need repair.

Sabrina is a gorgeous 1960s mannequin that has unfortunately suffered several breaks in her hands. All of her fingers were intact, but most were broken. They had been taped, glued with epoxy, and held together with Band-Aids. Additionally, she had a large chip on the surface of her neck. She was a sight for sore eyes and while it was easy enough for me to clean her up in Photoshop, I dreaded spending the time touching up photos when I knew there had to be a better way.

My friend, thevintagepeddler, suggested making the repairs with Bondo. (See her guide on how to choose a mannequin.)

First, let’s take a look at her hands before and after.

Before–this is much worse than it looks.

After:

Let’s learn how to do this repair. Before you begin, you must read and follow these rules.

Rule #1: Patience, patience, patience. It may take several

applications to cover all of the blemishes and cracks — especially if

they are deep and dramatic.

Rule #2: APPLY THE BONDO IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!!! Notice how that’s in all caps, bolded, and has three exclamation

points. There’s a reason for that. This stuff gives off a powerful

chemical stink and the vapors are toxic. If possible, work outdoors, or in a garage with the door open. If you have no

other option but to do it indoors, open your windows, and run a fan in

the room. Face the fan out a window to help carry the vapors out of the

room. If you have a gas mask, use it.

Rule #3: Mix the Bondo in very small batches (about the

size of a ping pong ball). This stuff dries

incredibly fast. After mixing the hardener in with the Bondo mixture,

you have about two to three minutes before it hardens to the point that

you can’t use it anymore. To help with this, inspect the area

and devise a plan of attack before you mix even begin to mix your small batch of Bondo.

How To Bondo Your Manni:

First,

inspect the mannequin to asses areas need the most attention. If it’s

your mannequin, you’re probably intimately familiar with the problem

spots, but it probably wouldn’t hurt to look again anyway. On a close

inspection you might notice something that you’ve overlooked before.

If

you’re dealing with broken fingers, superglue works pretty well for reattaching them. As with the Bondo, the

superglue dries pretty quickly, so you might want to practice fitting

the fingers back where they belong without applying the glue. There

will probably be subtle little things you can feel when things snap

into place where they should be. Give yourself some time to become

acquainted with how that feels. Then glue the edges of the break and

put them together. Oh, and here’s another heads-up. I’m not sure what

kind of material Sabrina is made of, it seems to be some kind

of rubber derivative. The superglue doesn’t always stick very well on the first

try. If that’s the case, place a little rubbing alcohol on one of those flat,

round cotton facial wipes. Then, go around the edges of the breaks first

before applying the glue. This really helps the glue to adhere to the

surface and also to dry quickly.

Before heading on to Bondo,

there’s some pre-prep. After identifying the areas you want to work on

(and gluing on broken parts), sand the areas where you plan to apply

the bondo with coarse sandpaper (use 60 or 80 grit). This

will help rough up the area and will give the Bondo something to adhere

to.

Next, as mentioned above, carefully examine the small area where you plan to apply the Bondo.

You should be all ready to start mixing the Bondo now.

REMEMBER TO DO THIS IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA!

Follow

the directions on the back of the Bondo can and mix a small batch.

Have the part you want to work on handy so you can start application as

soon as the Bondo mixture is ready.

For mixing, you can use the cap

provided with the Bondo and an old butter knife or something metal that you’re not worried about ruining. Put the Bondo mixture in the cap, then squeeze in a

little of the red hardener and stir until the mixture is a uniform

pinkish/grey hue.

Then, using the butter knife, quickly apply the

mixture to the area. When applying the Bondo, remember that coverage,

not neatness, is what you’re shooting for here. You want to make sure you’ve

got the area covered. Any bumps, lumps, and irregularities can be

corrected in the sanding. But if you don’t get good coverage, you’re

going to have to sand first, then apply another coat. Apply as much as

you can before it starts to harden, but once it starts to get dry and

flaky in the cap, stop applying. It’s not going to do any good at that

point. Just set the cap aside and use the fact that the Bondo is pretty

hard, but not quite set to your advantage. If you have any unwanted

drips on your mannequin, you can scrape them off now with your

fingernail.

Now, you’ve got about a thirty minute wait for the Bondo to dry. It’s a good time to take the cap out to the dumpster and

scrape out the dregs you didn’t use. After that, get yourself some

fresh air for a while. You’ll probably find that you need it.

Ok, now it’s thirty minutes later.

Tear

off a fresh square of coarse sandpaper and start sculpting the bondo

you applied. It sands down pretty easily, but it also clogs the

sandpaper quickly, so you’ll probably want to have a few sheets handy.

When you notice that you’re doing a lot of sanding, but nothing is

happening, throw out that square of sandpaper and tear off another.

(Another reason to do this outdoors is that sanding

generates quite a lot of nasty pinkish-grey dust. If you have a dust mask, you really should wear it.)

Every so often, wipe

the surface with a cloth and inspect your work to see how it’s

progressing. Once you’ve gotten it to a point where you’re happy with it (or to the

point that you need to apply a second coat) rinse that part off or wipe

it down with a clean, damp rag, then dry it off with a paper towel.

Repeat that process as necessary until you’ve got it

right. Once you’re pleased with the results, you can softly “feather” the

edges of the Bondo with fine (150 or 220 grit) sandpaper.

Wash and dry

it again, and you’re ready to paint.

Please see our guide for painting your newly repaired mannequin.

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