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I’ve personally had several problems lately with items being “lost in the mail” … Have you? I see on so many listings, “Not responsible for items lost or damaged in the mail”. Not quite correct, you know? Almost every seller gives the buyer an option to buy insurance on their purchase. This insurance, when purchased, guarantees a refund of the value specified, TO THE SELLER, in the event of damage during shipping. When this insurance is paid for, BY THE BUYER, the seller has the obligation of either refunding the buyers payment and then filing a damage claim or acting as a middleman to assure that the buyer gets reimbursed. So you see, a buyer IS resposible for insured items damaged in the mail.
Also, many sellers do not realize that if an item is lost in the mail, a buyer can file an “item not received” claim with eBay or PayPal. Unless the seller can provide tracking information, to eBay or PayPal, as proof that the seller actually mailed the package, PayPal will grant a full refund to the buyer.
A simple solution to both of these situations is to ship all packages with “Delivery Confirmation”. The USPS charges a mere 60 cents for this option on most services. If you ship by Priority Mail, the charge is only 50 cents. This option gives the seller a receipt for shipping a specific package to a specific buyer. It also provides the seller with a tracking number which can be a lifesaver if a package is, indeed, “lost in the mail”. A good seller can email the tracking number to the buyer and they can then follow the progress of the package at www.usps.com ……
If everyone would use Delivery Confirmation, I’m sure that there would be less claims for “lost” packages filed. Charge the extra 60 or 50 cents and do yourself and your buyer a service.
FREE PACKING MATERIAL
So where do you find it……. You may think to look at department stores for boxes. But they compact everything. The office building next door…. but the people in the shipping department are way down in the basement…… AUTOMOTIVE BODY SHOP & FURNITURE STORES , yes the gold mine in packing material, styrofoam, bubble wrap, small to huge cardboard boxes are BODY SHOPS AND FURNITURE STORES.
Packing material chokes up their dumpster, and they are more than happy to get rid of it.
Make an arrangement to have them save what you are looking for. Yes, you could even dumpster dive. Large boxes that had hoods, fenders etc. are a great source of cardboard. Small boxes from small parts. Most of these shops and stores do not compact or break down their trash. Not much else in there either. You are not going to find rank garbage or diapers. But you are going to find sheets of bubble wrap and styrofoam peanuts.(ghost poop)
Small businesses will save packing material for you too. Just ask. They may even have a stockpile of styrofoam beads right now.
You may pass one of these body shops every day on the way home from work, there may even be one right around the corner from you……..
RECYCLE, RE-USE, YOU CHOOSE
I have not purchased a box, packing material, or bubble wrap in 30 years. Only padded envelopes and tape.
Mark
One of the best deals going on shipping, for many items, is the US Post Office FLAT RATE packages.
There are 3 sizes of packaging to choose from with Flat Rate Shipping.
The light bulb is for size comparison.
This is a very sturdy 12 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ envelope with no weight limit. The main stipulation is that you can secure the flap as it is.
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This is a box with an inside diameter of about 13 1/2″ x 12″ x 3 1/2″, which is similar to a size that would fit a dress shirt, and as all of these Flat Rate packages, has a 70 # weight limit.
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This box has an I.D. of 11″ x 8 1/2″ x 5 1/2″, and would be similar to a size that would accommodate a stack of 6 red house bricks. Again, 70 # weight limit.
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The boxes are free, and will be delivered to your front door in a week or so, by placing your order at the USPS web site (your local Post Office should also carry them, but it may be necessary to ask, as they may be behind the counter). Later, free pick up of the items you have packaged can also be scheduled with the US Postal Service. More info can be found at “usps.com”.
There are many other Priority mail packages & supplies to choose from on the USPS website, and all except those with postage already attached should be free. The Flat Rate boxes are Priority Mail items, and they can be found through a link, by searching Supplies here –> USPS.com
eBay & USPS also offer some of the Priority mail boxes branded with the eBay logo in a few of the common sizes. They may be found here –> supplies.usps.com
Also, with regards to eBay, if you use the option to “Print Shipping Label” in “My eBay”" after a buyer has won, and paid for the item, there is now an option for you to print the US Postal Priority Flat rate Envelope or Box shipping label right on your own printer, by paying for it through PayPal.
The US Postal Service web site also allows you to print Postage labels directly to your printer. This is useful for those not involved with eBay, or for those wishing to print their postage for other needs. Also, when printing postage at the USPS web site you may use your debit or credit card(s) to set up, and pay for, that shipping process. There is also an online address book you can work with.
It is very easy and straight forward after you try it a few times.
Also, by using Priority mail, your customer, or recipient gets the items quickly. Secondly, if you ship with one of the many USPS Priority mail boxes, that are free of charge (as opposed to the average single box price of between $1.50 to 4.50) you offset your shipping fees, by adding speed and reliability to the shipment.
By printing your label online you will also automatically be able to look up any delivery confirmations, and by adding either a signature confirmation, or the reasonably priced insurance, to the shipment you should have all the protection you need should something happen along the way. The tracking information, for your shipments is also available to you, or the recipient, online, at the USPS web site.
* Please note though, that the USPS online tracking runs a few days behind what you might be used to with some of the other online services. So, do not panic, as it will always shows up, just not as quick as you would wish.
Let it also be noted that Priority mail travels by air, which is very gentle on the shipment. With reasonable care taken in your packaging it is very likely you will never see any damage claims. We have yet to have a damaged Priority mail shipment. Also remember though, that when shipping by other Postal methods such as Media Mail, or Parcel Post, for example, that your shipment may be subjected to bouncing around in the back of a semi trailer for a few days.
This article mainly refers to articles shipped inside the US, but Priority mail is availabe for shipments leaving the US.
* The envelopes are $9.00 to Canada and Mexico, and $11.00 to all other countries.
* The boxes are $23.00 to Canada and Mexico, and $37.00 to all other countries.
Lastly, the boxes and envelopes, as pictured here, are being redesigned to a different style by USPS at this time.
Vote below if you want.
Thank you for the interest.
Hornwaddler
If you’ve got a vintage mannequin, there’s a good chance that your lady needs a repair or two.
My pal, butter_side_down, helped me repair my mannequin, Sabrina. He also helped write this guide for others whose mannequins need repair.
Sabrina is a gorgeous 1960s mannequin that has unfortunately suffered several breaks in her hands. All of her fingers were intact, but most were broken. They had been taped, glued with epoxy, and held together with Band-Aids. Additionally, she had a large chip on the surface of her neck. She was a sight for sore eyes and while it was easy enough for me to clean her up in Photoshop, I dreaded spending the time touching up photos when I knew there had to be a better way.
My friend, thevintagepeddler, suggested making the repairs with Bondo. (See her guide on how to choose a mannequin.)
First, let’s take a look at her hands before and after.
Before–this is much worse than it looks.
After:
Let’s learn how to do this repair. Before you begin, you must read and follow these rules.
Rule #1: Patience, patience, patience. It may take several
applications to cover all of the blemishes and cracks — especially if
they are deep and dramatic.
Rule #2: APPLY THE BONDO IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!!! Notice how that’s in all caps, bolded, and has three exclamation
points. There’s a reason for that. This stuff gives off a powerful
chemical stink and the vapors are toxic. If possible, work outdoors, or in a garage with the door open. If you have no
other option but to do it indoors, open your windows, and run a fan in
the room. Face the fan out a window to help carry the vapors out of the
room. If you have a gas mask, use it.
Rule #3: Mix the Bondo in very small batches (about the
size of a ping pong ball). This stuff dries
incredibly fast. After mixing the hardener in with the Bondo mixture,
you have about two to three minutes before it hardens to the point that
you can’t use it anymore. To help with this, inspect the area
and devise a plan of attack before you mix even begin to mix your small batch of Bondo.
How To Bondo Your Manni:
First,
inspect the mannequin to asses areas need the most attention. If it’s
your mannequin, you’re probably intimately familiar with the problem
spots, but it probably wouldn’t hurt to look again anyway. On a close
inspection you might notice something that you’ve overlooked before.
If
you’re dealing with broken fingers, superglue works pretty well for reattaching them. As with the Bondo, the
superglue dries pretty quickly, so you might want to practice fitting
the fingers back where they belong without applying the glue. There
will probably be subtle little things you can feel when things snap
into place where they should be. Give yourself some time to become
acquainted with how that feels. Then glue the edges of the break and
put them together. Oh, and here’s another heads-up. I’m not sure what
kind of material Sabrina is made of, it seems to be some kind
of rubber derivative. The superglue doesn’t always stick very well on the first
try. If that’s the case, place a little rubbing alcohol on one of those flat,
round cotton facial wipes. Then, go around the edges of the breaks first
before applying the glue. This really helps the glue to adhere to the
surface and also to dry quickly.
Before heading on to Bondo,
there’s some pre-prep. After identifying the areas you want to work on
(and gluing on broken parts), sand the areas where you plan to apply
the bondo with coarse sandpaper (use 60 or 80 grit). This
will help rough up the area and will give the Bondo something to adhere
to.
Next, as mentioned above, carefully examine the small area where you plan to apply the Bondo.
You should be all ready to start mixing the Bondo now.
REMEMBER TO DO THIS IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA!
Follow
the directions on the back of the Bondo can and mix a small batch.
Have the part you want to work on handy so you can start application as
soon as the Bondo mixture is ready.
For mixing, you can use the cap
provided with the Bondo and an old butter knife or something metal that you’re not worried about ruining. Put the Bondo mixture in the cap, then squeeze in a
little of the red hardener and stir until the mixture is a uniform
pinkish/grey hue.
Then, using the butter knife, quickly apply the
mixture to the area. When applying the Bondo, remember that coverage,
not neatness, is what you’re shooting for here. You want to make sure you’ve
got the area covered. Any bumps, lumps, and irregularities can be
corrected in the sanding. But if you don’t get good coverage, you’re
going to have to sand first, then apply another coat. Apply as much as
you can before it starts to harden, but once it starts to get dry and
flaky in the cap, stop applying. It’s not going to do any good at that
point. Just set the cap aside and use the fact that the Bondo is pretty
hard, but not quite set to your advantage. If you have any unwanted
drips on your mannequin, you can scrape them off now with your
fingernail.
Now, you’ve got about a thirty minute wait for the Bondo to dry. It’s a good time to take the cap out to the dumpster and
scrape out the dregs you didn’t use. After that, get yourself some
fresh air for a while. You’ll probably find that you need it.
Ok, now it’s thirty minutes later.
Tear
off a fresh square of coarse sandpaper and start sculpting the bondo
you applied. It sands down pretty easily, but it also clogs the
sandpaper quickly, so you’ll probably want to have a few sheets handy.
When you notice that you’re doing a lot of sanding, but nothing is
happening, throw out that square of sandpaper and tear off another.
(Another reason to do this outdoors is that sanding
generates quite a lot of nasty pinkish-grey dust. If you have a dust mask, you really should wear it.)
Every so often, wipe
the surface with a cloth and inspect your work to see how it’s
progressing. Once you’ve gotten it to a point where you’re happy with it (or to the
point that you need to apply a second coat) rinse that part off or wipe
it down with a clean, damp rag, then dry it off with a paper towel.
Repeat that process as necessary until you’ve got it
right. Once you’re pleased with the results, you can softly “feather” the
edges of the Bondo with fine (150 or 220 grit) sandpaper.
Wash and dry
it again, and you’re ready to paint.
Please see our guide for painting your newly repaired mannequin.